No postcards: concrete advice from people who live in Palermo. What to eat, where to hike, which day trips are truly worth it, and the stories that explain this city.

The pilgrim climb to the Santa Rosalia sanctuary, the Capo Gallo lighthouse trail, the Sferracavallo sunset loop: the best hikes from central Palermo, with difficulty, seasons and where to swim after.

The rooftops with the best views over the city, the Arab-era qanat tunnels under the streets, the Capo alleys and the best golden-hour spots — the Palermo you find by looking up (and down).

Segesta and Erice, Cefalù and the Tiberio Gorges, Agrigento and Scala dei Turchi, Zingaro Reserve, Monreale: honest travel times from Palermo, best seasons, and when a private tour beats a group one.

From Falcone and Borsellino to Addiopizzo and the pizzo-free economy: why a mafia tour in Palermo is worth doing — if it tells the story of the people who fought back.

Panelle, arancine, sfincione, pani ca meusa and cannoli: what to actually eat in Palermo, where locals buy it in the Ballarò, Vucciria and Capo markets, what it costs and when to go.

Palermo in autumn and winter: 15°C in January, no queues at the monuments, citrus season, prices cut in half and a seafront you can walk all year. A month-by-month guide for off-season travellers.

Cappella Palatina, Martorana, San Cataldo, Zisa, the Cathedral and Monreale: a practical guide to Palermo’s Arab-Norman UNESCO site. Why this fusion is unique in Europe, the right order to visit, tickets and timing.

A guide to the Sicilian desserts worth eating in Palermo: how to spot a serious cannolo (filled to order), real cassata, iris, brioche with gelato and setteveli. Plus the seasonal sweets you only find in certain months.

What Palermo's three historic markets really are today: Ballarò the living market, Capo for food, Vucciria for nightlife. The right hours, what to buy and taste, and how to photograph without being a nuisance.

A 3-day Palermo itinerary written by locals: old town and markets, the Arab-Norman route with Monreale, then Mondello beach or a day trip. With honest timings, where to eat cheap and the mistakes most visitors make.

Sicilian puppet theatre, markets as a sensory adventure park, gelato in a brioche, Mondello's shallow water and the catacombs question: an honest family guide, stroller reality included.

The Capo Gallo sea caves, swim stops in the gulf of Mondello, sunset sails: what a half-day boat trip from Palermo really looks like, private vs shared, and why small boats beat big ones every time.

The train is the smart way in, the Norman cathedral alone justifies the trip, La Rocca is an early-morning climb or nothing, and the August beach is not the brochure: what to know before you go — plus the Gole di Tiberio alternative.
Hydrofoils from Trapani, why a bike is the only sensible way around, Cala Rossa and Bue Marino, the Florio tuna fishery and kayaking the coast: the real logistics of doing Favignana in a day from Palermo — and when not to.

Mondello with its Liberty-style kiosks, the Barcarello rocks under Capo Gallo, Sferracavallo and the locals-only strip at Vergine Maria: how to get there by bus, when they get packed and when the water is actually warm.
Tours and experiences in Palermo and western Sicily, led by locals.